Camso Bogey Wheel Puller

A seized wheel comes off with a puller — not with a pry bar, and not with a torch. The screw-type Camso wheel puller handles most wheels on most Camso ATV and UTV track systems. The exception we keep running into is the wheels mounted to the swivel brackets — the video calls them pivoting idler wheels — which come off in a vise instead, and which we see on systems whose serials begin 6822 and 6722. Both halves are below, in the order you will hit them.

One note on the word. Camso spells it bogie; plenty of dealers and forums — ATVTracks.net's own catalogue included — write bogey. Same part, and we use bogie from here on. The rest of the vocabulary is sorted out on how track systems work.

The tool, and what it does

It is a screw-type puller: the body hooks behind the wheel, the screw bears on the end of the shaft, and turning the screw walks the wheel straight off its axis. Straight is the whole point. Every improvised method — pry bar, slide hammer, heat, a block of wood and a mallet — loads the wheel sideways or cooks the bearing, and the parts that absorb that are the shaft and the bearing housing.

ATVTracks.net lists it simply as Wheel Puller, part 2000-00-1050 (checked 2026-09-30). That part number is the thing worth writing down — it is what survives a price change or a catalogue reshuffle, and it is what to quote on the phone. We sell it, which is both why we have opinions about it and why we are telling you; the disclosure spells out the relationship.

The case for owning one is the asymmetry. A set of bearings is the cheapest part of this job; a complete wheel kit for one track unit — every wheel, bearing, seal and cap — is much the most expensive. The puller is a one-time purchase that costs less than one wheel kit bought because a wheel was destroyed coming off. We are not quoting prices here because tool and parts pricing moves; current figures are on the service tools listing, stocked beside the parts it saves.

Start with the serial number

Before you buy a tool or a wheel, find the serial. It is the serial, not the model name, that tells you which wheel you have and whether the puller is even the right approach. On the systems we have a manual for, it is stamped on the track system frame and marked on the rubber track itself.

Two prefixes we can tie to a document, because they are printed on the manual covers: 6522 is the Camso UTV 4S1 and 7522 is the Camso X4S.

The assemblies the puller does not work on are a different story. The systems we run into that on carry serial numbers beginning 6822 and 6722. We have not transcribed a manual for either one, so that is a bench observation and not a document — and we are not going to guess which product family those prefixes belong to. If your serial starts with something else and the wheel is on a swivel bracket, call before you order a tool.

Get the track off, machine up

We take the track off the unit before the puller comes out. Not because a manual requires it — for access. With the rubber out of the way you can get the puller square on the shaft, you can see the back of the wheel, and nothing is pushing back at you while you load the screw.

• Flat, dry, level workspace with overhead clearance, and enough light to see what you are doing.
• Jack stands rated for the full weight of the machine. Lift one corner at a time, or all four with proper stands. With a track unit off, nothing but the stands is holding the machine.
• A second set of hands. A track unit off the machine is a two-person lift.
• Penetrating oil, early. Soak the shaft end when you start the teardown, not when the puller stalls. It wants time more than it wants volume.

Positioning and working the puller

Before the tool touches anything: confirm this wheel is not mounted to a swivel bracket. If it is — the video calls these pivoting idler wheels — stop here and go to the swivel-bracket method instead. The puller does not work on those, and finding that out under load is what costs a bracket.

1. Cap off, shaft cleaned

Pull the wheel cap and set it somewhere you will find it again. Clean the exposed end of the shaft back to bare metal — corrosion under the puller screw is what makes the screw wander. Give the penetrating oil a few minutes while you lay the tool out.

2. Puller seated square

The puller has to sit on the shaft's centreline with the body square behind the wheel. A puller that starts cocked stays cocked, and then the load goes somewhere other than straight off the shaft. Spend the extra thirty seconds here. It is the difference between this working and this becoming a parts order.

3. Load it, and reset if it stalls

Turn the screw steadily and watch the gap behind the wheel. A wheel that is going to move usually starts moving early. Two things Gary does in the video when it does not: tap the puller while it is under tension to shock the wheel loose, and reach for a short socket to extend the puller when it runs out of travel before the wheel is all the way off. What none of us do is keep winding on a stalled puller — leaning on it is how tools get bent and shafts get ruined.

4. Catch the wheel

Once it breaks loose it comes the rest of the way quickly. Expect the bearings and the seal to come off with the wheel or stay behind on the shaft, and expect the inside of the hub to be dry. Bag the hardware as it comes off.

Everything below the swivel-bracket heading is in that video too, and where this page quotes a figure — the oil grade, the thread locker, the torques — that is where it comes from.

The swivel-bracket exception

The puller does not work on wheels mounted to the swivel brackets. Those assemblies carry a rubber bushing in the bracket, and between the bushing and the way the wheel and bracket are put together, there is nothing for the tool to work against. We do not try. We take the bracket off instead.

This is the case on the systems whose serials begin 6822 and 6722, which is why the serial comes before the tool.

1. Bracket off the frame

Remove the complete swivel bracket assembly from the track frame — wheel still attached. Note how it sat and which hardware came from where; photograph it if there is any doubt.

2. Bracket in the vise

Clamp the bracket in a vise, on a solid part of the bracket, tight enough that it cannot shift or launch when you hit it. The vise is the entire reason this method works: it gives you control you simply do not have while the assembly is bolted to the machine.

3. Drive the wheel off with a socket

Our video is explicit about the method here: a vise and a socket. Pick a socket that bears on the wheel's hub face rather than on the rubber or the shaft threads, and drive the wheel off that. Wear eye protection, keep the force path straight down the shaft, and remember the rubber bushing in the bracket is not a backing surface.

Reassembly, and the oil step

This is the part owners skip, and it is the part that decides what next season's removal feels like. New bearings, new seal, and then two small habits that cost a minute each.

• Oil the cavity between the bearings before the wheel goes back on the shaft.
• Oil under the cap before the cap goes back on. Extra lubrication and protection, and it makes the cap and the wheel far easier to get off next time — which is the whole reason we started doing it.
• Replace the seal with the bearing. A compromised seal is what kills the bearing behind it, and you are already in there.
• A small amount of red thread locker on reassembly, per the video. Camso's own manual calls for a Loctite 262-type locker at the places it marks, so check your exploded view for which fasteners those are.
• Confirm free rotation by hand before the track goes back on. No roughness, no drag, no play — three of the four bearing checks on track wear limits. The fourth is comparative heat, which has to wait until it has run.

On the durability claim, we will be straight with you. In our experience bearings that went in with oil in that cavity outlast dry ones by a wide margin. We do not have a number for it — nobody publishes one — but it is consistent enough that we do it on every wheel that crosses the bench.

The habit that prevents this

We have worked on older Camso systems where the wheels had not been serviced in years. Those are the ones that need the puller, and sometimes need it twice. The seizure is not really a wheel problem — it is a service-interval problem.

• Pull the caps on a schedule, not on a symptom. Check play, roughness, drag and comparative heat at the cadence in the maintenance guide, and again before the season in the preseason inspection.
• Oil every time the wheel comes off. It adds a minute. Skipping it is what turns a ten-minute removal into a morning.
• Act on roughness, not on failure. A set of bearings fitted on time costs a fraction of a complete wheel kit fitted late, and the symptom side of that is on common track problems.

Grit and slush are the accelerant. A machine that works in mud needs the interval tightened, not the same interval with more hope in it.

When this is a shop job

Hand it over if any of these are true.

• You can't safely support the machine on stands.
• You don't own a vise, or anywhere solid to mount one.
• You can't identify your serial prefix.
• The wheel is on a swivel bracket and you'd rather not find out the hard way.
• You'd rather not deal with it.

What we can't cite here

No Camso service manual backs this page, and we would rather say so than dress shop practice up as a specification. Specifically: the 6822 and 6722 prefixes, the size of the cavity between the bearings, and the claim that oiling it extends bearing life are all first-party — what we find and what we do, not what a manual prints. The oil grade, the thread locker and the three torque figures above are first-party too, but they are at least published: they come from our own video, linked above, rather than from this page alone.

The cited figures live elsewhere on this site. Tension, toe-in, angle of attack and torque are on track setup specs; wheel, guide and sprocket wear thresholds are on track wear limits. Both carry document numbers and the date we last checked them. If your manual disagrees with anything here, it wins — tell usand we'll fix it.

Common questions